Dean &
Ginny's excellent adventures... Main
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Trip
to Nova Scotia--08/06:
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We were driving the "Sunrise Trail"; we
thought that it
was aptly named, although we never saw many others enjoying the
sunrises with us.
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<< We crossed
the land bridge from New Brunswick into the Province of Nova Scotia late
in the afternoon. The people manning the visitors' centers were
tremendously helpful. We almost felt like we had the personal
consultation of a travel agent each time we stopped.
We headed northeast and stopped for the night at a
provincial campground near
Amherst. The mosquitoes were thick, so the next morning we left very
early to get out of the woods before we fixed our coffee.
We stopped at a small harbor and watched as all the watermen left while the tide was favorable. We thoroughly enjoyed the
sunrise here and all the birds.

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We
drove along the north shoreline route and enjoyed the seaside villages at
each harbor, and there are many harbors and inlets. While the length
of Nova Scotia is about 500 miles, the rugged and undulating coastline
measures more
than 4700 miles!
When we crossed the bridge onto the island of Cape Breton,
we headed north along the western shore. The name of this route is
the Cabot Trail.
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You need a license to fish, but Dean was looking
for pools where he could have thrown a lure. I just
thought the river was beautiful. >> |
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We stopped for the night at a campground just inside Cape Breton
Highlands National Park. We rode our bikes through the woods and
along a beautiful river. The forest floor was carpeted
with lady slippers, that beautiful orchid so typical of a pristine acid woods in the north.
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Moose
in the morning!!
At dawn, we headed north to explore the park and at the first
pullout, we saw four moose (two bulls and two cows) browsing in a
meadow. They were unconcerned about our presence. The
bulls were huge and their antlers displayed different shades of gray in
irregular bands. Magnificent.
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No matter where you look in Cape Breton, the amazing scenery
takes your breath away. The rocky coast, the birch and
coniferous forests, and the undulating highlands provide the
backdrop for this unspoiled land.
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Cape Breton Nation Highlands Park spans the
whole peninsula from east to west with a few out-of-park towns
dotting the shoreline. The only roads run along either
coast; the whole interior is wilderness with only hiking
trails. North of this park, there is another large provincial
wilderness area and to the east of that are some towns and
non-park areas. Neil's Harbor is one of these
north-of-the-park towns.
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We thoroughly enjoyed Neil's Harbour, yet another
charming, but quirky seaside fishing village.
They have the typical squat Canadian lighthouse
and a fish/lobster packing plant in the barn-shaped building next
to the docks. The cloudy day is good and bad for photography
with the dark clouds providing interesting background for our
boats photo, but not quite enough light for the overall scenery
photos.
We thought the Betty Boop-like character on the
old channel marker in someone's front yard was fun.
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Before we crossed the Strait of Canso to leave the Cape Breton
Island, we stopped for a lobster club sandwich, a Sunday brunch special, at a
restaurant with a view in St. Anns.
We camped near Antigonish and drove the highway across the province for Halifax.
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<< As we drove
into Halifax, Dean noticed a military base right in the center of the
city. We stayed in their visitors' quarters, a pleasant change from van camping.
The museum on the base looks like some of the buildings on the Naval
Academy grounds in Annapolis. You wouldn't see this plaque in
Annapolis, though...

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Halifax is definitely a city, but the scale is quite human. We rode
our bikes around town and along the waterfront first, then we headed up a significant hill to The Citadel, an historic fort at the top of the
city.
We
watched the glass blowers and cutters, sampled some local brew, visited
the gardens, and simply enjoyed the Canadian ambiance in this city of old
and new.
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At
The Citadel, they say that the only thing missing here is the
scurvy! The guard plays his part very well in his traditional
uniform. The view from atop this hill shows why it was an
important strategic spot.
The domes look different from up here--you can see
them from below in the photo looking up the street. |
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We loved the Victorian public gardens just down the
street from The Citadel.
Poor Ceres must bear the indignity of a large gull
sitting on her head day after day. Many folks strolled
around the gardens on this day.
The well-maintained homes in the neighborhoods off
the main streets make Halifax a truly marvelous city. |
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On to the south
trail--it's called the "Lighthouse Route" >>
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