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Grand Voyage--2012:  << Part 1 << Part 2 << Part 3 << Part 4 << Part 5 << Part 6 << Part 7 << Part 8
 
<< Part 9  << Part 10  << Part 11 << Part 12  << Part 13 << Part 14 Part 15 Part 16 >> Part 17 >> Part 18 >> Part 19 >>
 Part 20 >> Part 21 >> Part 22 >> Part 23 >> Part 24 >> Part 25 >> 

We sailed into Hong Kong early on Sunday morning. The first thing you notice is the verticality of the city with all its skyscrapers and then, even this early on a Sunday, that the traffic along the waterfront roads and also the boat traffic in Victoria Harbor is significant. We will be here for two days.  So much to see!

Our ship docked on the Kowloon side of the harbor next to the Star Ferry terminal with its iconic clock tower and across the harbor, on the Hong Kong side, we could see this convention center with sweeping rooflines vaguely similar to the Sidney Opera House. We were some of the first passengers to disembark and we found a money change house that was open and changed our Australian money for Hong Kong dollars. Our plan was to buy a one-day subway (MTR) ticket that's good for 24 hours and take the train to various sites. But first we walk around the city...

 

Across the street from the Star Ferry terminal, this world heritage site provided some interesting contrasts between old and new as well as between Eastern and Western cultures.

   

 
A noodle man rearranges his bags of dried noodles in front of a ":Chocoolate" wall.


We walked over to Kowloon Park where our Tai Chi class will practice with Hong Kong residents early tomorrow morning. It's mostly highly managed, but one area was labeled as being less trimmed and maintained with no poisons to create habitat for the birds. No matter where you are in the park, though, the city is not far away.  While we were there, an older gentleman with a beautiful voice was singing what we assumed was Chinese operatic arias. A magical moment...


We head back into the streets and then on to another nearby garden space. Yes, it was rainy and chilly.  This was as far north as we've been for a while...


Huge TV screens blast the sports and ads into the streets. There is a lot of building, but we were surprised that almost all the scaffolding is made of bamboo and duct tape--even many stories tall.

 
We've no idea what the Hair Peace is, but ads for it are common. 


Chestnuts roasting on a charcoal fire, baked sweet potatoes, or orange juice: there's plenty to eat on the streets.


An elevated garden space overlooks the harbor and Hong Kong Island. Familiar plants such as the Crepe Myrtle were evident, but then so is Florida native, Magnolia grandiflora. I've never heard it referred to as a Bull Bay, but then while English is widely spoken here thanks to many decades of English rule, the translation of signs is sometimes a little weird.

 

It's spring in Hong Kong and the azaleas are gorgeous. We didn't see that many birds, but we heard them and we never found this mynah-like bird with the black collar in the Chinese (or Australian) bird book.

 At around noon we walked to the subway station and bought our tickets. 

 
Very neat and orderly... There are glass walls with doors that open automatically with the train doors to keep people from falling onto the tracks.  A couple of old men played beautiful Oriental music on a modern xylophone and an old type of string instrument. 


Dean had researched the places to visit and we had a commercialized map of the city and its New Territories that have been settled more recently. So we were off... About $7 each for our tickets.  We start at the "A". Our first stop was under the harbor to Hong Kong Island to Victoria Park ("B"), a garden famous for its events and the large number of Tai Chi participants. Today there's a flower show, but since it was raining, not much is happening.

We found some cover under a tent, rechecked our map for the next stop, and waited along with whole families for the rain to dissipate. The stone walkway had warning signs to use it (apparently without shoes) only if you could do so without pain--beautiful none-the-less.

   We then traveled back under the harbor and made a couple of transfers and rode north to the New Territories ("C") to see The Fanling Temple. Being a Sunday, it was crowded with families honoring their ancestors. We're not sure what the Buddhists' practices are, but the temple was beautiful and we tried not to offend people as they worshiped. The odor of sandalwood incense and other smoke filled the air.

 

Monks walk quickly through the plaza. There are photos of people glued in front of little cubbyholes--the hall of ancestors. Some people purchased special bags and burned them in a large fireplace as part of an ancestor honoring ritual.

Inside the temple is unbelievably ornate--we loved the storks painted on the ceiling.

   
A black marble memorial has elaborate gold etchings on one side and line after line of writing on the other.  A koi pond decorates the plaza between the temple and the hall of ancestors.  Then it was back to the ship for dinner and the famous computerized light show at 8pm.


The Hong Kong light show.

   
The two left photos are of the same building with its different lighting schemes. The one on the right is another building across the harbor.


There are lasers and coordinated flashings emanating from most all the buildings.  There's is music as well, but we did not hear it from the ship.  I guess if we'd paid for a boat tour, it would have been piped in. But pretty darn spectacular in any case.  Early to bed for us--the Tai Chi class is meeting at the gang plank at 5:30am...

 
By the time we walked over to the park, there was a session well under way. When there was a break in the music and routine, Cathy, our Tai Chi master (with white pants below) asked for permission for us to join them.

  
We visited with the locals. This man took me under his wing and showed me their warm-up routines. We worked out with them for about an hour--they weren't finished at this point, but most of us left to go back to the ship (a twenty minute walk) for breakfast and to get on with our day. Fun and a great work out.  We saw no young people participating either here or in any of the other parks.

 
Then it was back to the train for us... More people on the train since it's Monday. We had another park to visit, King's Park. What surprised us about this park was its vertical nature.



There were small dead ends in the pathways where people could practice their Tai Chi or meditation totally alone. We figured that they needed this private space in such a busy and crowded city.


Uniformed school boys gather at the 
Big Thumb Café.


This sewing machine company was crammed with supplies and seamstresses. It's typical of many family business storefronts.

Our last stop was Stanley on the opposite side of Hong Kong Island. The trains don't cross the island, so it was an interesting bus ride over. Our double-decker bus  offers good views of the city.


Many small markets dot the cityscape.


Cemeteries are compact--no large lawns here. Above is the gate and below is a view of the family plots all jammed together on a steep slope. People with black umbrellas work on theirs plots.

 


More high rises on the water and some famous beaches are on the far side of Hong Kong Island.

Stanley is a world away from the city and has served as a respite from the HK hubbub.

 

Stanley Market consists of a warren of booths.  It's quite famous, but we are not terribly impressed. We heard a tour leader for one of the organized trips giving her participants only 40 minutes here. We were in and out way before then and that included a pretty good walk along the waterfront where you can purchase "An All-American Breakfast All Day Long!" We smiled at the aggressive greeters and walked on by. Coming to Hong Kong for an American breakfast wasn't on our list.


There was another stop on the way out here with many sanpans where people live out there whole lives on these covered boats, but we didn't have time to stop. Only one here. A small Buddhist Temple adorned one end of the waterfront area.

And so we take the bus back to the port area and I came back out with my computer into the very high-end shopping mall that serves as our terminal. I spent a couple of hours checking email, Facebook and uploading trek pages. There's never enough time after sightseeing for Internet, even though I pre-build all these pages on sea days.  All aboard is 3:30pm.

<< A Shirley Temple store exemplifies the over-the-top high-end consumerism in the terminal mall, Harbor City.   

Dean's Log: Days 65 - 67

Itinerary graphic    On to Viet Nam... >>

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