Dean & Ginny's excellent adventures...  Main Adventure Page

Grand Voyage--2012:  << Part 1 << Part 2 << Part 3 << Part 4 << Part 5 << Part 6 << Part 7 << Part 8
Part
9 Part 10 >> Part 11 >> Part 12 >> Part 13 >> Part 14 >> Part 15 >> Part 16 >> Part 17 >> Part 18 >> Part 19 >>
  Part 20 >> Part 21 >> Part 22 >> Part 23 >> Part 24 >> Part 25 >>

We loved the mountains behind Ushuaia and could see some interesting-looking buildings from the ship.  We were anxious to get out and walk around even though the wind was strong. 

 

We could tell that we were in Argentina, because we saw this sign (in Spanish and English) on the dock informing us again that Great Britain and Northern Ireland have been illegally occupying the Falkland Islands since 1833. A few days later, we saw on CNN that Argentina has filed a formal complaint to the United Nations. We'll stay tuned, as they say, with much more first hand information...

Because Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world, it's know as "fin del mundo" (the end of the world).

Many of the buildings appeared to be of European design, even Hostel America (on left). The lace in many of the windows added to this feeling.

Gardens graced some of the homes and parks in the city. 

    

 

 
We saw lots of these cool-looking birds with a loud squawk around the city, especially in the parks. While we had no idea what they were, they sort of acted like killdeer or plovers, so when we got back to the ship we looked them up in the South American bird books in the library and determined that they were southern lapwings in the plover family. 

 
The street art was interesting. We especially liked the portrait of a man made from drawings of trees and rocks--too bad that others have overwritten it with graffiti.

The mountains are not just behind the city, but were in evidence in every direction.  Beautiful.

 

Later in the afternoon, when the weather was a little better, we brought our computers ashore. We bought some coffee, tea and croissants in a coffee shop in exchange for some free Internet access.  Good to be in touch and upload some more of these trek pages. >>

 

 

Our next stop was Punta Arenas, Chile, a slightly larger city that was, at one time, THE stop over spot for ships sailing around Cape Horn. Once the Panama Canal was dug, it became less important, but many ships still stop here to restock and refuel. The ship anchored and we had to ride tenders ashore. We were scheduled for a tour to Otway Bay to see penguins. 

On the way to the penguins, the bus paused at a llama and sheep farm with a classic auto museum. An unidentified car is displayed on a blue tower. 

 

 

 

 

 

These are Magellanic penguins like the ones we saw in the Falkland Islands, but there are many more of them here. We had a wonderful time walking around in our designated paths. The penguins could walk anywhere...

 
Dean learns to walk like a penguin.

 

Beak clacking starts out as a twosome, but escalates into a trio of activity. Not sure what the significance is. These penguins mate for life, so maybe these were first year adults looking for mates.


The Magellanic penguins are also called the jackass penguins because their call sounds very much like that four-legged animal's bray. When we got there, it was time for the adults to walk down to the beach to feed--they do this twice a day. Their well-worn paths are so deeply carved in the soil that only the top third of their bodies show as they walk.

 

 

The chicks were already at the beach and were molting--feathers flew everywhere. After they get a new set of feathers, they'll enter the water for the first time. Right now the chicks are as big or bigger than the adults so they have enough body fat to take them through this phase.

 

A Skua cruises over the beach looking for weakened penguins to attack.

      

The weather was not pleasant--very high winds, sleet and rain. But we were bundled up and the penguins are so darn cute that it was definitely worth the effort. The dark glasses were to protect our eyes from the wind not the sun.


The flag of Punta Arenas shows the yellow mountains and the Southern Cross constellation in a blue field. 
The Chilean flag is red white and blue with one large star.  


From the bus on the way back into the city we saw some Reas, ostrich-like birds, strutting in the countryside with their feathers blown askew by the strong winds. We also saw two huge Andean condors--very rare.

As we came into town our guide (a native of Punta Arenas, but his parents were British) told us about this building enclosed in glass--it stays warm with only the solar radiation. Impressive in this cold climate.

 

Our next stop was a cemetery with giant topiaries and extravagant family mausoleums.

 

 

Our last bus stop was this overlook of the city and our ship...

We were originally scheduled to be here for one day here, but bad weather and large waves located in our route across the Pacific caused the captain and the head office in Seattle to redo the itinerary and stay here for two days before heading out. The second day was a Sunday and many businesses were closed, but we spent some time walking around the city.

 

Down at the waterfront, bunches of imperial cormorants (blue-eyed shags) populated an old dock and its pilings. One guy, a fellow passenger, looking at them thought they were penguins. Their black and white feathers do give that appearance, but when they fly, that should be a clue that they are not penguins at all.

  

 

   

I spent two hours on the second floor of this Internet cafe listening to cleverly DJ'd American rock 'n roll.  The Internet access was fairly fast and cost a reasonable $2 per hour.  

You may have noticed that some of our photos are of sunny weather, but some show gray skies and wet streets. It surprised us that the rainbows over the city seem to be as frequent as those in Hawaii. The ride on the tenders was very bumpy on the rough water here. 

We now have our new itinerary--we'll be missing one of our stops and will not sail through the Chilean Fjords, but we are in for some rough seas as we head to Easter Island. As we sailed away, the wind blowing water from the white-capped waves created hundreds of rainbows to bid us adios. 

Dean's Log: Days 28-31

Itinerary graphic    On to Easter Island, Chile... >>

Main Adventure Page

Top of page:

 

© Sky-Bolt Enterprises 2001-2012