Dean &
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Grand
Voyage--2012:
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So we skipped Monday as we crossed the
International Dateline and
it was now Fat Tuesday, better known as Mardi Gras. The crew had
been madly working on some huge project in the mid-pool area, we'd
been blocked from entering since midday. We waited for 5pm just
outside the door next to a crepe station--it smelled terrific as
the cook warmed up his griddle.

We were greeted by the costumed staff and by smells of more food.
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We grabbed a table near the band and on the balcony of the
paddlewheel boat that had been built over the pool. We invited a
friend from diving and his wife to share the table.

The king and queen of Mardi Gras were selected from submitted
applications. After sitting for photos, they led a parade
around the pool and many people joined in strutting to "When
the
Saints Go Marching In."
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VIPs from left to right: Captain Mercer, Bruce (our cruise director),
and Stein Kruse, the aptly named CEO of Holland America and Seabourne
(both divisions of Carnival Cruiselines). Mr. Kruse had given a
presentation and answered lots of questions that afternoon.
The Carl Leblanc New Orleans Jazz Band had boarded in Pago Pago and
was just perfect for the evening. We danced, ate Cajun
shrimp, soft crabs, fried crawdads (?), and dessert crepes. Not many
vegetables, in this meal, but a great time.
The band will
play for us again before leaving us in Sydney, and Wednesday Carl
Leblanc presented a wonderful history of jazz, which he illustrated with his guitar and singing
as to why New Orleans was the only
place it could have happened. >>
We enjoyed the second New Orleans Band show, too. We sailed for several
days, setting our clocks back each day on our way to Australia. We
had to skip our stop in New Caledonia because of the bad weather in the
eastern Pacific.
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<< Dean was out with his camera during this
part of the trip and photographed an albatross
hitchhiking on our foremast--it was riding with us for some hours.
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The captain altered our course slightly to
sail between two islands that are a World Heritage Site. Bell's Pyramid is
the more interesting island, since it juts straight out of the water
from a very deep bottom. It was broad as we approached it, but as we
passed, it was quite narrow. Somehow the Polynesians did not find or
settle these islands. We heard that diving is amazing here, maybe next
time...
The taller of the small rocks next to Bell's Pyramid looks
kinda like a Moai. The white on its top is bird guano,
since the rock is all volcanic, which is not white. >>
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We sailed into Sydney in the morning and our
travel guide provided commentary and background along the
way. Dean perched himself on the railing on the
highest deck so he could take unobstructed photos in any
direction.
We entered the harbor between two high bluffs with
the city glistening in the early light. |

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Sydney Harbor is huge and has a number of
branches. We passed several of these quaint mid-channel
markers. The people on the boats gathered near this one were
fishing. >>
And then we turned the corner to reveal the
icons of Sydney. At first glance we see the Opera House, and the
huge bridge, but there is more... |

We slowed down to allow the tanker ship under the bridge first--there's
only room for one of us in the center of the channel. The small
fortified island between us and the opera house, Ft. Denison, used to be a fort and
then a
prison,
but now it houses an exclusive restaurant and is a popular spot for
weddings.

The Australian prime minister's house at the foot of the bridge is on a
beautiful piece of land jutting into the harbor.

As we passed under the bridge, a train rumbled across above
us and Luna Park was visible on the right (starboard) side. Looking back
I couldn't resist the "2001" shot of the sun behind the ship's tower.

As we turned left into Darling Harbor to dock, we saw parts of another
interesting suspension bridge supported by two wishbone towers. We were
greeted by a group of pipers as we reached our dock, but the players
were long gone by the time we were finally cleared to disembark a couple
of hours later.
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Our main destination on our first day was the Royal
Botanic Gardens, but on the way over we stopped to admire the Museum
of Sydney's outside display...
We also liked many of the historic buildings with their
interesting facades and even gargoyles. What we didn't notice, until we
looked at this photo, that there is a monster climbing up toward the
knights. It's below the right knight.

Even this bank displays some humor.
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The gardens are hard to miss because they are
so huge. From across the street, the date palms call to us. The
latitude here in Sydney is almost the same as Jacksonville, but in
the southern hemisphere. It seems a little more tropical,
though.
We loved the invitation to "Please walk on
the grass." >>
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Kookaburra sits in an old gum tree
Eating all the gumdrops he can see
Laugh Kookaburra, laugh. Kookaburra,
Save some there for me.
Kookaburra sits in an old gum tree
Counting all the monkeys he can see
Stop Kookaburra, stop. Kookaburra
That's not a monkey. It's me.
It's sung as a round with many verses. |
We'd been told that there were a lot of birds in
the gardens, but were surprised and delighted
that our first bird was a Laughing Kookaburra (a type of kingfisher
that I've been singing about since Girl Scouts ). He was robbed of
his worm and chased away by a Pied Currawong, a crow relative. It's
black with a yellow eye and a white rump and some white tail
feathers.
We made good use of the Australian bird book in the
library when we
got back to the ship to satisfy our own curiosity and so you'll
know what we've seen.
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One of the more common birds in the gardens is the Australian White
Ibis--with its curved beak, it worked the turf in groups very much
like the Florida ibises. (We call them the committee.) The guy in the center with the
yellow eye patch is the Noisy Miner, but the noisiest and most raucous
were the beautiful Sulfur-Crested Cockatoos.

While we've seen cockatoos as captive birds, it was nice to see them
in their native environs. We were surprised to see how yellow the
undersides of their wings are. The bird with the yellow flap over its beak is the
Masked Lapwing. (We saw a different lapwing in Ushuaia.)

Near a small lake in the gardens, we saw two types of cormorants. The ones with the
white bellies are Pied Cormorants (They're smaller than the Imperial
Cormorants, which also have a white belly, that we saw in Antarctica and Punta Arenas.), while the others are
Little Black Cormorants. Also near the lake we saw a pair of Pacific
Black Ducks
with their light eye stripes. And we saw a number of the black and
white Australian Magpies all over the gardens.
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The most colorful bird by far that we saw in the gardens
is the Rainbow Lorikeet.
One was feeding on the seeds of this shrub (Banksia spp,
an Australian native) and allowed Dean to
approach
fairly close with his camera, but eventually he was too close
for comfort and it flushed just as Dean clicked the camera.

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We walked through the tropical rain forest section where
there was a lot of shade and plenty of ferns.

The pond gardens held pitcher plants, water lilies and a large lotus bed
with its pink flowers and iconic seed pods.
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This huge spider is probably 6 or 7 inches long including her legs and she
has her meals lined up for later. And if you look closely, there's
a much
smaller spider (behind her) that may be her mate...
This
elaborate astrolab/sundial provides the time and is the centerpiece for
the herb garden.
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This
weird shelter has a beautiful overall shape, but its weapons and
barbed wire seem out of place.
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The two fig-leafed figures face each other across a path and are called
"The Boxers." Behind this bench is one of many sandstone
outcroppings in the gardens (and in all of Sydney).

The tropical plants grow inside a large partially submerged greenhouse. We
did not go inside--too much to see outside including this beautiful yellow
striped bamboo. It's Saturday, so lots of people are out enjoying the day.
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Notice the ibises.

As beautiful as the scenery is, one of the big
attractions in the gardens are the flying foxes. They are large fruit and
flower-eating bats. We spotted them in the morning, but we'd heard that
they all fly together in the evening, so we decided to head back to the
ship, have lunch, put our feet up for a while, and then come back.

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On the way back to the ship we
walked around the Sydney Opera House at the far end of the gardens.
The view from the steps of the opera house
looking back toward Circular Cay where another cruise ship is
docked
and a local ferry heads out to one of several destinations within
the large harbor.
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As we passed by the bridge, we focused our
cameras on the people who've paid a lot of money for the privilege
of climbing to the top--no cameras allowed up there,
but it must be a great view.

There were at least two open-air weddings today with views of the
harbor, opera house and bridge. This part of town is on two
levels with the upper level servicing the bridge and bluffs, while
the lower part is the waterfront area. There are lots of stairs
and elevated roadways.

Didgeridoo players in Aboriginal garb worked the populated plazas. Markets sold a wide variety of goods from produce to
art or even chess pieces with an Australian theme--koalas for
pawns, the opera house for rooks and kangaroos for knights.

Historic buildings contrast with modern skyscrapers. The Rocks is a
row of brick structures that started out as the main prison here
(Various European countries used Australia as a penal community.),
but now each block serves as a restaurant, both in the buildings
and out under the tents overlooking the harbor.


In the afternoon, we were still too early for the mass flying of
the foxes, so we continued over to the other side of the park,
which is called The Domain. We stopped to admire this carved
wooden statue, which is also a slit drum, which was used for long
distance communications by the aborigines.
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A large party with a driving, loud drumbeat mixed by a DJ had
taken over a large section of The Domain side of the garden. The
boats anchored just off-shore absorbed the deafening ambiance without paying
the admission fee. People were still streaming in after we'd
walked out to the point and back. This White-Faced Heron did
not seem to mind the noise.
Finally, it was late afternoon so we headed back
to watch the foxes do their thing.

They were beginning to stir and a few dropped
from their hanging spots and flew short distances and reperched. To
land, they grab onto a bare branch and whip around the branch as
they settle back into a hanging position. The guy in the left
photo is hanging by just 3 toes--it stayed that way as long as we
watched it.


We stayed until after 7pm and we never did see a mass flight, but
it was fun to watch them as they started to stir when they would
stretch one wing and then another. They unfurled and
refurled their wings many times before they finally took off and
flew their separate ways. We headed back to the ship; our necks
were stiff from looking up for so many hours.
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We went back out in the evening and saw two wedding
receptions/parties in waterfront restaurants, but mainly we headed
out to see the lighted opera house. Luna Park across the harbor
was a surprise. The next day we'll head out to some of the beaches
via ferries and buses.
Dean's
Log: Days 46-50
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