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Grand Voyage--2012:  << Part 1 << Part 2 << Part 3 << Part 4 << Part 5 << Part 6 << Part 7 << Part 8
 
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So we skipped Monday as we crossed the International Dateline and it was now Fat Tuesday, better known as Mardi Gras. The crew had been madly working on some huge project in the mid-pool area, we'd been blocked from entering since midday. We waited for 5pm just outside the door next to a crepe station--it smelled terrific as the cook warmed up his griddle.  


We were greeted by the costumed staff and by smells of more food.

We grabbed a table near the band and on the balcony of the paddlewheel boat that had been built over the pool. We invited a friend from diving and his wife to share the table.


The king and queen of Mardi Gras were selected from submitted applications.  After sitting for photos, they led a parade around the pool and many people joined in strutting to "When the Saints Go Marching In." 


VIPs from left to right: Captain Mercer, Bruce (our cruise director), and Stein Kruse, the aptly named CEO of Holland America and Seabourne (both divisions of Carnival Cruiselines). Mr. Kruse had given a presentation and answered lots of questions that afternoon.

  
The Carl Leblanc New Orleans Jazz Band had boarded in Pago Pago and was just perfect for the evening. We danced, ate  Cajun shrimp, soft crabs, fried crawdads (?), and dessert crepes. Not many vegetables, in this meal, but a great time.  

The band will play for us again before leaving us in Sydney, and Wednesday Carl Leblanc presented a wonderful history of jazz, which he illustrated with his guitar and singing as to why New Orleans was the only place it could have happened. >>

 

We enjoyed the second New Orleans Band show, too. We sailed for several days, setting our clocks back each day on our way to Australia.  We had to skip our stop in New Caledonia because of the bad weather in the eastern Pacific. 

<< Dean was out with his camera during this part of the trip and photographed an albatross hitchhiking on our foremast--it was riding with us for some hours.

 

 

The captain altered our course slightly to sail between two islands that are a World Heritage Site. Bell's Pyramid is the more interesting island, since it juts straight out of the water from a very deep bottom. It was broad as we approached it, but as we passed, it was quite narrow.  Somehow the Polynesians did not find or settle these islands. We heard that diving is amazing here, maybe next time... 

 

The taller of the small rocks next to Bell's Pyramid looks kinda like a Moai.  The white on its top is bird guano, since the rock is all volcanic, which is not white.  >>  

  

We sailed into Sydney in the morning and our travel guide provided commentary and background along the way.  Dean perched himself on the railing  on the highest deck so he could take unobstructed photos in any direction.

We entered the harbor between two high bluffs with the city glistening in the early light.

 

 Sydney Harbor is huge and has a number of branches. We passed several of these quaint mid-channel markers.  The people on the boats gathered near this one were fishing. >>

 

 

And then we turned the corner to reveal the icons of Sydney. At first glance we see the Opera House, and the huge bridge, but there is more...


We slowed down to allow the tanker ship under the bridge first--there's only room for one of us in the center of the channel. The small fortified island between us and the opera house, Ft. Denison, used to be a fort and then a prison, 
but now it houses an exclusive restaurant and is a popular spot for weddings.


The Australian prime minister's house at the foot of the bridge is on a beautiful piece of land jutting into the harbor.  


As we passed under the bridge, a train rumbled across above us and Luna Park was visible on the right (starboard) side. Looking back I couldn't resist the "2001" shot of the sun behind the ship's tower.


As we turned left into Darling Harbor to dock, we saw parts of another interesting suspension bridge supported by two wishbone towers. We were greeted by a group of pipers as we reached our dock, but the players were long gone by the time we were finally cleared to disembark a couple of hours later. 

Our main destination on our first day was the Royal Botanic Gardens, but on the way over we stopped to admire the Museum of Sydney's outside display...

 

We also liked many of the historic buildings with their interesting facades and even gargoyles. What we didn't notice, until we looked at this photo, that there is a monster climbing up toward the knights. It's below the right knight.


Even this bank displays some humor.

 

The gardens are hard to miss because they are so huge. From across the street, the date palms call to us. The latitude here in Sydney is almost the same as Jacksonville, but in the southern hemisphere.  It seems a little more tropical, though. 

We loved the invitation to "Please walk on the grass." >>

 

   

Kookaburra sits in an old gum tree
Eating all the gumdrops he can see
Laugh Kookaburra, laugh. Kookaburra,
Save some there for me.

Kookaburra sits in an old gum tree
Counting all the monkeys he can see
Stop Kookaburra, stop. Kookaburra
That's not a monkey. It's me.

It's sung as a round with many verses. 

We'd been told that there were a lot of birds in the gardens, but were surprised and delighted that our first bird was a Laughing Kookaburra (a type of kingfisher that I've been singing about since Girl Scouts ). He was robbed of his worm and chased away by a Pied Currawong, a crow relative. It's black with a yellow eye and a white rump and some white tail feathers.

We made good use of the Australian bird book in the library when we got back to the ship to satisfy our own curiosity and so you'll know what we've seen.

 


One of the more common birds in the gardens is the Australian White Ibis--with its curved beak, it worked the turf in groups very much like the Florida ibises. (We call them the committee.) The guy in the center with the yellow eye patch is the Noisy Miner, but the noisiest and most raucous were the beautiful Sulfur-Crested Cockatoos.


While we've seen cockatoos as captive birds, it was nice to see them in their native environs. We were surprised to see how yellow the undersides of their wings are. The bird with the yellow flap over its beak is the Masked Lapwing. (We saw a different lapwing in Ushuaia.)


Near a small lake in the gardens, we saw two types of cormorants. The ones with the white bellies are Pied Cormorants (They're smaller than the Imperial Cormorants, which also have a white belly, that we saw in Antarctica and Punta Arenas.), while the others are Little Black Cormorants. Also near the lake we saw a pair of Pacific Black Ducks with their light eye stripes. And we saw a number of the black and white Australian Magpies all over the gardens.

 

The most colorful bird by far that we saw in the gardens is the Rainbow Lorikeet. One was feeding on the seeds of this shrub (Banksia spp, an Australian native) and allowed Dean to approach fairly close with his camera, but eventually he was too close for comfort and it flushed just as Dean clicked the camera.

  
We walked through the tropical rain forest section where there was a lot of shade and plenty of ferns. 


The pond gardens held pitcher plants, water lilies and a large lotus bed with its pink flowers and iconic seed pods. 

 

 

<< This huge spider is probably 6 or 7 inches long including her legs and she has her meals lined up for later. And if you look closely, there's a much smaller spider (behind her) that may be her mate...

 

 

This elaborate astrolab/sundial provides the time and is the centerpiece for the herb garden. 

This weird shelter has a beautiful overall shape, but its weapons and barbed wire seem out of place. 

 

   

The two fig-leafed figures face each other across a path and are called "The Boxers." Behind this bench is one of many sandstone outcroppings in the gardens (and in all of Sydney).

 
The tropical plants grow inside a large partially submerged greenhouse. We did not go inside--too much to see outside including this beautiful yellow striped bamboo. It's Saturday, so lots of people are out enjoying the day.


Notice the ibises.

As beautiful as the scenery is, one of the big attractions in the gardens are the flying foxes. They are large fruit and flower-eating bats. We spotted them in the morning, but we'd heard that they all fly together in the evening, so we decided to head back to the ship, have lunch, put our feet up for a while, and then come back. 

 

  On the way back to the ship we walked around the Sydney Opera House at the far end of the gardens.

The view from the steps of the opera house looking back toward Circular Cay where another cruise ship is docked 
and a local ferry heads out to one of several destinations within the large harbor.

  

As we passed by the bridge, we focused our cameras on the people who've paid a lot of money for the privilege of climbing to the top--no cameras allowed up there, but it must be a great view. 

 
There were at least two open-air weddings today with views of the harbor, opera house and bridge.  This part of town is on two levels with the upper level servicing the bridge and bluffs, while the lower part is the waterfront area. There are lots of stairs and elevated roadways. 


Didgeridoo players in Aboriginal garb worked the populated plazas. Markets sold a wide variety of goods from produce to art or even chess pieces with an Australian theme--koalas for pawns, the opera house for rooks and kangaroos for knights.

  
Historic buildings contrast with modern skyscrapers. The Rocks is a row of brick structures that started out as the main prison here (Various European countries used Australia as a penal community.), but now each block serves as a restaurant, both in the buildings and out under the tents overlooking the harbor.

   
In the afternoon, we were still too early for the mass flying of the foxes, so we continued over to the other side of the park, which is called The Domain. We stopped to admire this carved wooden statue, which is also a slit drum, which was used for long distance communications by the aborigines. 

 
A large party with a driving, loud drumbeat mixed by a DJ had taken over a large section of The Domain side of the garden. The boats anchored just off-shore absorbed the deafening ambiance without paying the admission fee. People were still streaming in after we'd walked out to the point and back. This White-Faced Heron did not seem to mind the noise.

Finally, it was late afternoon so we headed back to watch the foxes do their thing.

   

They were beginning to stir and a few dropped from their hanging spots and flew short distances and reperched. To land, they grab onto a bare branch and whip around the branch as they settle back into a hanging position. The guy in the left photo is hanging by just 3 toes--it stayed that way as long as we watched it.


We stayed until after 7pm and we never did see a mass flight, but it was fun to watch them as they started to stir when they would stretch one wing and then another.  They unfurled and refurled their wings many times before they finally took off and flew their separate ways. We headed back to the ship; our necks were stiff from looking up for so many hours.

 
We went back out in the evening and saw two wedding receptions/parties in waterfront restaurants, but mainly we headed out to see the lighted opera house. Luna Park across the harbor was a surprise. The next day we'll head out to some of the beaches via ferries and buses.

Dean's Log: Days 46-50

Itinerary graphic    Day two in Sydney... >>

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