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Grand Voyage--2012:  << Part 1 << Part 2  Part 3  Part 4 >> Part 5 >> Part 6 >> Part 7 >> Part 8 >>
Part 9 >> Part 10 >> Part 11 >> Part 12 >> Part 13 >> Part 14 >> Part 15 >> Part 16 >> Part 17 >> Part 18 >> Part 19 >>
  Part 20 >> Part 21 >> Part 22 >> Part 23 >> Part 24 >> Part 25 >>

There is no dockage for a cruise ship, so we anchored out from a small port south of the city and went ashore via local double-decker ferry boats.  We boarded the ferries on the second level and disembarked from the first level. Our ferry tied up to a local ferry, which was at the only dock, so we traipsed through the local boat to get ashore. >> 

Belem is a city located 60 miles up the Para River in the southern Amazon delta. We arose early to watch as we cruised up the wide river and were amazed by the tiny fishing boats plying the rough water in the darkness. The sun rose into the murky humidity and revealed even smaller fishing boats. 

 


Even this far up the river, it was low tide, but the mud did not halt the local commerce.

We boarded buses and rode 45 minutes into Belem, a city of contrasts.


Electrified fences and concertina wire barriers are common around nicer houses and even some churches.


These humorous figures strain to hold up a pair of columns. 

<< This blue building is an art museum.

   


Armed angels in a public square must be the avenging angels.

We did a lot of walking here. Some sidewalks were adorned with sweeping mosaic patterns. 

We had been advised to dress down, watch out for pickpockets, and not to carry dangling bags. We brought only one camera so one of us could be on alert, but we did not feel threatened at any time.

The city was really loud. There were cars with big speakers and people yelling about something, there were also speakers on the light poles in many places playing the radio and there was even a demonstration of some kind.  Everyone seemed to talk like announcers for monster truck rallies.

  
The church of the eleven windows (above) is beautifully maintained as is the white church across the street and the pink church with the palms a few blocks away.

    

   
We saw a few birds in the city parks, but unlike this green heron and the many black vultures near the waterfront, 
most did not sit still for photos. 

   
The low tide at the waterfront grounded the local boats and exposed the garbage-laden, stinking mud, but people bustled about their business anyway. 

 

  

Forte do Presepio is also located in the waterfront area with its perfectly maintained lawns. Dean made the mistake of stepping on the grass to look at a sculpture and was whistled off by a fort guard.

After walking for two and a half hours, we made our way back to the bus to return to the ship.

As seen from the bus window, it seemed odd to us that a large statue of liberty reigned over an import shop parking lot outside of the main city. >>

 

Back at our pickup spot, the tide was higher and our ship had swung on its anchor to face toward the mouth of the river.

 

An active market carried all types of fruits and grains. The locals were eating at small restaurants with loud televisions. 

 
Cute kids with their Lego toys knew to give us a thumbs up for the photo, while leaf-cutter ants carried the local flora back to their nests.

You can see a load of lumber behind our ferryboat. We passed more loads as we rode out to the Amsterdam. We had talked with a Brazilian working for the cruise ship on the dock. He said most of this lumber is illegal, but difficult to stop.  Kiss the Amazonian rain forest goodbye one barge load at a time! 

As our ferry pulled up to the ship to let us off, we were surprised at the lack of seamanship skills by the ferry driver and also of the receiving crew on the Amsterdam. It must have taken 15 minutes to line up the gate on the ferry with the boarding ramp with a lot of bumping and lurching. Granted, there was a fair current, but still...

~ ~ ~

Two days at sea and then to Recife (Portuguese for reef and you pronounce the final e as a long a), the Venice of Brazil, which sits out on the easternmost point of the country. Recife is known for its many rivers and bridges, but unlike Venice, Italy, the waterways are lined with mangroves. It was first settled by the Portuguese who built up on a hill called Olinda to avoid the swampy lowlands. Then the Dutch with all their lowland experience moved in to develop the waterfront.

We were up for sunrise and were rewarded with a beauty. We watched for the first glimpse of the city. We saw various towns along the way each with a good collection of skyscrapers. Each time we thought these towns must be Recife. Finally, we arrived at what looked like a huge city and indeed Recife is a bustling and interesting place.

We docked at a commercial yard inside a breakwater with a lighthouse
and this cool obelisk. Both tour buses and shuttle busses awaited our arrival.

 

 

The view of the waterfront looked enticing from the top deck of the ship. 

 

 

 

The shuttle to the center of the city took us to a marketplace that used to be a jail called Casa do Cultura. The vendors displayed their wares in the jail cells. On the outside of the building, this cool sundial using ceramic faces and Lucite markers keeps track of the day.

 

We walked the waterfront areas, bridges, and the central part of Recife, which show its Dutch origins. 

 

 

Also in evidence are preparations for Carnaval, (the celebration before Lent) such as this pink floating tower. We were told that Recife's celebration is second only to Rio de Janeiro's.

 


We crossed several bridges--this one was completed
 in 1876. All the bridges we saw were well maintained 
and this one was being painted.


Around every corner, there is a church...

   
Ornate seems to be the main theme here, but some are better maintained than others...

 

The church plazas are well used as markets and even modern concerts--above right, you can see the sound structure 
being built, while the full-sized stage is set up on the side opposite from the church. 
The insides of most of the churches are extremely ornate. 

 

We walked amongst the locals in the crowded side street markets where you can purchase everything from large appliances to regional fruits--even a goldfish for your aquarium.

 

As we approached the government buildings, the sidewalk mosaics became more ornate.


Palacio Governo and the palace of the princesses face each other
across the square--the Park of the Republic.
 

The governor's palace includes rich touches like stained glass, statues and even a baobob tree that was 
planted here in 1986--obviously, it must have been a pretty good sized tree at that time. 

Dean's Log Days 6-11

Itinerary graphic    On to Olinda... >>

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