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Grand
Voyage--2012:
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The
Falkland Islands (Malvinas) are about 300 miles east of southern South
America. Both Argentina and Great Britain claim these islands and in 1982
Margaret Thatcher led the British in a quick war with the Argentines to
maintain control. We saw the memorial to the war dead in Buenos
Aires, but here on the islands, the view is from the other vantage point.
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We'd heard from one fellow passenger that he'd been here
on cruise ships four times,
but had never been able to go ashore because of bad weather conditions. This time we were lucky and the
winds did not keep us (or another even larger cruise ship, a Princess
ship whose top was lost in the early morning fog) from anchoring in the
harbor. On this day, the tourists will outnumber the islanders, but
probably not the sheep.
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We boarded enclosed tenders and came ashore here. The first thing
we did was to take a local shuttle bus out to Gypsy Cove to see some penguins--it
was about a 15 minute ride to go 4.5 miles.
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Unlike a lot of penguins, the Magellanic
penguins dig
burrows. One question that comes to mind: How do they keep so white in the dirt? Here you see both
adults and pretty good sized chicks, which still lack the striping at this
point.
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Nearby, one
King Penguin was on the beach by himself. He apparently strayed from
the other king penguins, but once he landed on the beach at this time of year, he
started to molt and could not leave. One of the guides said that
since the sheen has returned to his coat that he was almost ready to
head back out to sea again after three weeks of being alone.
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We saw a number of other birds including a small flock of Upland
Geese and two Steamer Ducks on the right--a flightless bird. The
Upland Geese males sport white and gray plumage, while the females and juveniles
were mostly brown and black.
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The soil is quite acidic and peat harvesting from bogs used to be
common--dried peat was used for fuel.
The
mounds of plants include little cranberries and moss.
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The cannon out here at Gypsy Point is pointing out toward the outer
harbor where the two cruise ships are anchored.


Even without the penguins, the scenery here is
rugged and gorgeous, but it was really windy--gale force.
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One the way back to Stanley, wrecks served as scenery and as mooring
spots.
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We imagine that the horse manure is well-used in all those vegetable
gardens when the native soil is so poor.
This church with the whalebone arch is the classic postcard photo of
the Falklands, so here it is...
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After wandering around Stanley for a
couple of hours, we headed back to the dock, waited for a tender,
and headed back to the ship. Later, as we sailed away, we could
spot more penguins on the beach.
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And the floral arrangements throughout the ship are now all white and
green.
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The sail away party celebrated our next destination: the
band played selections such as "Cold as Ice," "Whiter Shade
of Pale," and even "White Christmas."
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