Dean & Ginny's excellent adventures...  Main Adventure Page

Grand Voyage--2012:  << Part 1 << Part 2 << Part 3 << Part 4 << Part 5 << Part 6 << Part 7 << Part 8
 
<< Part 9  << Part 10  << Part 11 << Part 12  << Part 13 << Part 14 << Part 15 << Part 16 << Part 17 << Part 18 << Part 19
Part 20
Part 21 >>  Part 22 >> Part 23 >> Part 24 >> Part 25 >>


In celebration of our being in India, the ship's floral arrangers have added peacock feathers to many of their big arrangements.

And so we're docked in Mumbai (formerly known as Bombay), the last and most populous Indian city that we visit. We will do the city on our own as usual.  Our first foray is out to Elephanta Island, a World Heritage Site.  Our papers are checked three times as we leave and then again as we come back. And each of the checkers seems to be a very slow reader. (We think that all this scrutiny is to create many extra jobs.) We needed special cards at the other two Indian ports as well, but they were not checked to this extent.

So we're off to the ferries--about a mile and a half walk.

 
There's a naval museum in the port area and this is a small part of its mural along the street.


A well-tended garden or nursery is not far from the dock.

 
The Gateway to India is a wonderful arched building that looks good from all directions. It faces the harbor on one side and a large plaza on the other. 


The luxurious Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is across the plaza from the arch.


Going through the gateway arch we see all the ferries. Dean pays for our tickets, about $3.60 each for a roundtrip. As we stepped down to the ferry, a well-dressed woman stepped up the edge of the platform and deliberately threw a bag of trash into the water before buying her ticket out to the island. People are apparently blind to the trash they create.  


While waiting for the ferry to depart, (They wait for enough passengers to board.) we struck up a conversation with this group of boys who will be entering college in the fall. They are all 16 or 17, except for the kid in the front who's 14, and are going out for the day and to have picnic. They  asked lots of questions and seemed to be happy to practice their English. They were delightful company.  They seemed surprised that we didn't know Barak Obama personally.

Also, while we waited, a tour group of our fellow shipmates trooped through our ferry onto their own separate ferry with no one but themselves to talk to. They paid $100 each for this tour, which also includes a guide for each group of 50 or so and a bus ride to the ferry.


We passed a lot of small boats and this strange island, which has been built up to look like a ship, but the most surprising sight on our ride out was the flock of flamingos!


Once you get off the ferry, you can pay for a half-mile ride to the base of the hill--as always, we walked. 
A couple of goats (with dead leaves stuck on their fur) served as the greeters.


Monkeys also greeted us and the tour group from our ship. Note the baby monkeys clinging to their mothers.


It's a pretty fair climb up to the caves and there are vendors under blue tarps on either side selling all manner of merchandise. You can pay for a ride up the stairs in a sedan chair hoisted by 4 strong men--several ladies from our ship did so. Once you pass the sign, the circus fades into the background. 

 
This site is a Hindu temple that was carved into solid rock.


The first cave also opens on another side of the hill through this pink rock. Very beautiful. 
There are four other caves as well and each is less developed than the ones before...


This is the second cave. The tours and most of the tourists do not explore these "lesser" caves.

 
The fifth cave is not much more than a hole in the side of the hill. 
But each cave contains a shrine of some type with fresh flowers strewn over it.

 
Some rooms in the lesser caves have been created or refurbished with concrete--We're pretty sure that rebar isn't found in native rock.


We watched the monkeys for a while. The one with the reddest face (below left) has a large wound on its back that another one is grooming. 

 

So we headed back down through the vendors and I bought a wonderful shawl and a cotton dress. We both bought India T-shirts. The vendors were quite willing to bargain for a sale.


At the foot of the jetty we watched these legged fish that live in mud holes. When the heron came a-calling, they ducked into their holes--nary a one to be seen.


These women give Dean dubious glances as we walk to the waiting ferry. We sit again until it fills up, they rework the lines until our boat is free, and then we're off for the hour-long ride back to the gateway. We walked back to the ship, had lunch, and then headed out again. This time we'd hire a taxi.


Abdul is our driver and he has an elaborate ceiling in his taxi--you can see our knees reflected in one of the mirrors. 


We cruised by the elegant Victoria Station, a train depot, but we did not stop.


Our first stop on our round of sites is the famous Chowpatty Beach. At night it's supposed to be an amazing circus of vendors, beachgoers, and gawkers.


Even in the daytime, there are some vendors at work like these guys with the ice-shaving machine and this bead woman--all those beads are loose on the orange cloth.


But people (and other animals) are living on the beach... 

 
and they leave big bags of grain in a corralled area (on right) for the birds, mostly pigeons.  We didn't stay long.

   
Our next destination is the Kamala Nehru Park, known locally as the Hanging Garden because it's located in part on a steep slope. 


Chowpatty Beach looks much more inviting from up here in the garden. The park was filled with families and young couples--no sleeping or game playing is allowed here and at this point, the old woman's shoe is off limits for the children due to repairs. The gardens are okay, but nothing to write home about except for the respite they offer from the hubbub of the city. 

 

 

<< The strict instructions for entering the Mumbai Jain Temple. The temple is definitely larger and more ornate than the Jain temple we visited in Mangalore, but again there were no visible worshippers. The other Hindu temples have been filled with people at all times of the day. 

Our next stop is definitely NOT serene, the Haji Ali Mosque. When Abdul stopped the cab and lifted the hood, we thought he was having engine problems, but no, he was removing the distributor cap so he could walk with us out to the mosque. It's built at the end of a long jetty-like causeway.

 


The causeway is about 15 feet wide with vendors on one side and beggars on the other.

 
Abdul and Dean lead the way. Dean and I are the only Caucasians out here and now we know why Abdul came with us--to protect his investment in us. He'll receive a generous tip for this service.  

 
Once we walk through the arch, we are to remove our shoes. Abdul, a Hindu, will wait there for us and guard our footwear. The women are to use this entrance into the central mosque--I did not enter, but I was prepared with a long-sleeved shirt and I could use the scarf on my hat to cover my head. Dean went into the main entrance, but only for a moment to take a photo of what looked like a covered coffin.


We stopped to listen to these musicians over to the side of the mosque and then we left, collected our shoes and Abdul, to go through the gauntlet of vendors, beggars and crowds again.

 


Someone has gone to a fair amount of trouble to create a float made from plastic bottles in a net bag, people have deposited bags of trash on the float. We wondered why, considering the vast amount of trash everywhere we looked. 

The mosque looks better from afar and in our rear-view mirror.   

Our last stop on our tour is more mundane--laundry! The Dhobi Ghats is where much of Mumbai's laundry is done. The men do the washing by beating the wet, soapy clothing on the smooth cement wash basins. Broken buttons are a problem as you might imagine. The women are inside doing the ironing and the replacing of buttons. 

We viewed this site from an overpass--only in Mumbai...

     

Time to head back to the ship.


In the photo on the right, there is a satellite dish atop the last hovel held in place by rocks--probably a just a prop, but who knows? 


We passed a ceremony of some type. We asked Abdul to stop.

We don't know what the ceremony celebrates, but it's  all-male and they are collecting money in the elaborate rug in front of a colorful tent. There are two oxen-drawn carts: one contains the boys and the other contains the elaborate sound system.

 

Wow! What a full day! Time for a shower, some dinner and to put our feet up. The next day here in port will be less ambitious.

 
The next morning we walked out of the gate after three slow checks of our paperwork. Just outside the gate we are mobbed by taxi drivers until we find Abdul and thank him again for the great day yesterday. We tell him we are just walking a short way to find some Internet with our computers and don't need his services.


A hundred or more school girls are lined up against the wall just outside the gate. They said they were waiting to go to the naval museum. I have no idea how many times I said, "Good morning. Yes, I am fine today." They were certainly anxious to talk to us. Very nice.


We found this interesting clock tower where the tourist information lady said we'd find wi-fi. She was thinking of an Internet café with no option of using our own computers. They did not know (or wouldn't tell us) where we could do so. We asked people at other high-tech businesses, but no one had any idea. At this point a well-dressed man approached us and asked us in clear English what we were looking for. He'd spent some time in the US and loved it. One time he drove from Washington, DC to Miami. He said it was very calming compared to this--he pointed to the horn-driven driving out on the street. We think he would have talked for the rest of the morning, so we ended the conversation and continued our search.

We headed in the direction of the various waterfront hotels and stopped at a small hotel and the clerk directed us to a literal hole in the wall entry to an alleyway. About 50 feet in was an Internet/communications dealer who did have wi-fi. Hooray! 


It was only about 10'x10' with a narrow spiral stairway to the similar sized room with places for seven or eight tightly spaced workstations with small, backless stools. I set up at one where the computer was out of order. The connection was pretty good. Dean spent an hour online and then went over to the Taj Mahal Hotel to take interior photos for an hour while I stayed to do more work. 

 
Quite elegant and they had a special display of celebrity photos and signature of Barak Obama, who stayed here at one point.  We took a taxi back to the port gate, turned in our immigration cards, and called it a day. As we leave India, our lungs are much happier to be in air we can't see. 

Now there will be several days at sea running fast through pirate-infested waters near Somalia. We are hugging the coast toward the north and east side and pass pretty close to some rocky islands. 


This empty tanker has lots of freeboard making it a less attractive target, but its crew still pumps water onto its deck so that it cascades off in huge torrents every time it rolls in the sea to discourage access and attacks. We have our own methods:

 
Rolls of concertina wire, fire hoses, extra crew members on watch on the promenade deck (third deck) and a high-powered directional audio system is ready to use. Plus we can go faster than the heavily laden ships. We've passed some slow-moving convoys with warship escorts. 

Dean's Log: Days 82 - 89

Itinerary graphic    On to Egypt... >>

Main Adventure Page

Top of page:

© Sky-Bolt Enterprises 2001-2012