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The Bay of Islands is an apt description for the geologic condition of hundreds of islands in a large bay. There is not a dock big enough for a cruise ship so it's a tender port for us and also for a large Celebrity cruise ship out on a 12-day sail from Sydney.  (Itinerary


A dinner cruise boat with solar panels readies for a jaunt at our tender dock in Paihia.

 
Street art ranges from aboriginal tikis to carved and varnished dolphins.

 

 
We loved this little free library created from a telephone booth...

 
...from cutesy bench on the street to a threatening Haka tiki at the local school.

 
We headed out of the village to find a hiking trail.

 
A bevy of quails walked in front of us. The trail started out level, but quickly gained altitude.

     
A tree fern forest feels primitive to us. At the overlook at top of the trail Dean works to get a better photo.

 
Both ships at anchor in the outer harbor area and para-sailors cruise around them.


The Waitangi Treaty grounds is the green field area out on this point of land. It's in the next village and we headed out that way after hiking back to Paihia.

  
We walked around the bend from town along this beach, which was well populated with locals. Horotutu means "our place" in the Maori language.

 
Queen Anne's Lace grows wild here amongst the other weeds. We'd seen these black & white cormorants before in Chile.

   
There was a big field with a shallow semi-circle of tikis about 12 feet tall where tents were being disassembled from yesterday's Waitangi Day celebrations.

 
Oystercatchers march on the field, too. There were some permanent tribal buildings as well. 

 
As we crossed the bridge over to the main treaty grounds, we noted that this was kiwi habitat and no dogs are allowed on the island. The imported mammals (dogs, cats, & pigs) have killed off much of the indigenous wildlife including kiwis.

 
Tourists in orange life vests were out for a ride on replicas of war canoes.

 
We decided not to pay the hefty entrance fee for the official grounds. We already knew most of the story. The Europeans signed a treaty with 14 tribes, but the translation into other languages was not accurate and ultimately it was not a good deal for the aboriginal peoples who had been in place here for thousands of years before Europeans arrived. The anniversary of the signing is celebrated as a national holiday.

 
We walked back along the beach and saw this replica of a Polynesian explorer out-rigger canoe. (This is our last Polynesian port.) These are the boats that were used by their early explorers using traditional methods, which included the stars, the direction of the ocean swells, and the behavior of land & sea birds. The other ship was tendering to this beach and there was a shuttle to take them to the town of Paihia. We jumped aboard and then took the ferry to another of the many islands.

 
Our destination was Russell, an historic town, which used to be capital of this region, but now is a tourist attraction.  This house served as the customs house starting in 1870 and this bay fig tree (Ficus mactophillia) was planted by the first customs officer at that time.

 

 
An eclectic array of architectural styles...

 
Beware of dog sign. We walked up out of town to Flagstaff Hill where the first NZ flag was flown after the signing of the treaties. This was a second mountain climb on this day.

 
We've seen the ships from both sides now... 

 
Some type of pea hen or gallinule is also walking around the park atop the hill. Lichen covers most of the trees up here.

 
We walked down the other side of the hill. We saw several rain catchment systems like this one with large cisterns being fed from all the roof runoff. 

 
We walked through the residential neighborhood several blocks from the touristy area near the docks and came upon a lawn bowling club in full action. We asked if we could take photos and they invited us into their clubhouse for better access. How nice!

 
We watched for a while and thanked them for their hospitality as we continued on our adventure.

 
A sign in front of a school and the local church.

   
Victims of the sinking of the HMS Hazard in 1845 are buried in the cemetery.

 
Reenactors in historical garb chat with the tourists. 

 
We boarded a different ferry back to Paihia and watched the local kids play a game of perching on the pilings and jumping into the harbor. Dean took his own portrait while shooting a photo of the ferry captain on the way back.


Back on the Amsterdam, there was an elaborate sail away party with complementary wine.

 
We looked back at Flagstaff Hill where we walked that afternoon and then..,

 
we enjoyed the lush islands as we say good bye to New Zealand. We hardly got to know you.
Dean's Log: Bay of Islands

Next stop is Sydney, Australia across The Ditch, which will take 2 days. 

On to Sydney ... >>

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